Our Grand Adventure

26th February 2026 | Odometer: 1339nm | Dominican Republic

Hispaniola is one of the biggest islands along the chain – split between Haiti and the Dominican Republic, given the current situation in Haiti we planned to only visit the northern side of the Dominican Republic before departing. The DR has a totally different feel to every other island we have been to. It’s very undeveloped, there are motorbikes, tuk tuks and scooters everywhere and so much trash floating in the water and loose on the streets.

But our first goal was to get to the National Park – an area on the southern side of Samana bay. On a perfectly calm day, we did an easy 2 hour motor over the bay and pulled up in a gorgeous anchorage surrounded by jungle-covered mountains.

We explored the surrounding cliffs on our dinghy, then slept comfortably amongst the beautiful scenery, waking in the foggy morning to the stunning sight of clouds rising off the hills all around us.

Serenity

We took the dinghy through a narrow gap in the cliff faces and found ourselves in an alternate reality – the calm, still waters are surrounded on all sides by steep cliffs; with deep overhangs covered with green drapery and interesting formations striped in reds and whites. Every face feels unique, as the wind, rain and tides have eroded unusual shapes and channels over the surface. There is a mixture of spiky agave, cute succulents, tropical palms and jungle vines blending together to form a lively profusion of green high above you.

Amongst the cliffs are large mangrove fields with their oyster-encrusted roots looping over the surface of the water. The new roots dangle down from the canopy through the open ground layer and herons and marsh birds wade through the shallow ground searching for their next meal, whilst eagles soar high overhead.

We were the only people in the park and entering felt like you had stepped into a moment where the world held it’s breath. Everything slows, and, as we turned off the dinghy motor, you are suddenly intensely aware of the lack of human noise. No cars, no alarms, no sirens, no engines…. just an utterly serene quiet. After a moment or two of silence, the bird life begins and the air is filled with trills, calls and whistles from an incredible variety of birds, underscored by the constant vibrations of cicadas.

We made our way into the dense foliage, following a muddy trail amongst trees thick with vines, mushrooms and moss. The thick canopy overhead created dim, dark spaces, interspersed with streams of bright light cascading through the gaps. The varying light created the full range of greens with deep dark foliage and almost luminous green patches amongst them. Strangely eroded rocks stood out amongst the trees creating new homes for other plant types.

Eventually, after a few wrong turns, we found the entrance to the caves. We pulled out our torches and headed into the darkness. We had to keep checking the unpredictable ground, and both us tripped because we were too distracted admiring the strange stalagmites, stalactites and unusual growth patterns over every surface.

Resurfacing into the light, we continued exploring the trails, but headed back to the boat as the mosquitoes were really starting to pick up. Along the way we saw many cacao trees and Ryan decided to pick one to see what the insides were like when we returned.

Once again, the GoPro has done a pretty neat job of stitching together a short video of this trip. The area is stunningly beautiful, and the photos just can’t do it justice.

The National Park was truly gorgeous, we loved our time there. SUPing in close to the cliffs, discovering tiny streams and and tucked away little beach fronts. We waded deep up the creeks and swam in the crystal clear sandy patches. An amazing place, a side step from reality.

Back to Reality – Bahamas Bound!

Our initial plan had been to spend time in the national park, then head to Luperon on the northern side, then eventually Turks and Caicos, then Bahamas! Unfortunately, we were running into some issues with an extended stay in the Dominican Republic.

Firstly, there was no drinking water available – at all. Any water had to be carried in purchased water bottles from the grocery stores. We really didn’t want to contaminate our fresh water tanks with non-potable water – so this was going to be a bit of an issue for us.

Secondly, the DR Navy requires you to obtain physical paperwork for every anchorage before you go there – in person, at their office. During office hours. Often when you go, there is no one there and you have to wait for an hour or two for them to show up. There is also limited anchorages, and many of these had little to no protection from the prevailing winds making for many an uncomfortable spot that is hard to leave when conditions change.

And lastly, the land access from the anchorages was… challenging. Samana town has one dinghy dock. It’s an utter wreck – loose nails, broken floorboards, local power boats tied up over the top of it, lines left in the water with no markers. There is room for maybe two boats; but often about six or eight there. Every time you go ashore, it’s nearly guaranteed your dinghy is getting beaten on the rocks, or into the dock, or dragged under the dock itself. It’s just not a good time and very stressful!

We had been reading about similar problems in the other DR anchorages, and so, after an inspiring comment from a neighbouring cruiser at the national park, we decided to head directly to the Bahamas in an upcoming weather window in just a few days! A complete change of plans for us!

Shopping

We headed back into Samana town to prepare for a two-night passage to the Bahamas. We wanted to cook up some meals and grab some fresh vegetables, canned food bits and pieces.

Samana town itself is pretty enough – lots of colourful buildings, a large boardwalk down the waterfront and a lively grocery and markets area a few streets back. It’s also dusty, and loud, with motorbikes and cars roaring past. The heat was intense in the middle of the day and shady streets became ovens as we walked around.

The grocery stores are well stocked with dry goods, and the markets carry a great selection of fresh vegetables. After investigating the meat options I just couldn’t do it with whole chickens sold on a bench in the sun, and miscellaneous meats sold in blood-soaked stands open to to the air. We loaded up with fresh veges instead, and treated ourselves to a tasty lunch after our efforts.