Our Grand Adventure

7th March 2026 | Great Inagua Island | Bahamas

After arriving to the Bahamas on our 48 hour passage we were both extremely fatigued. I was still feeling very off with lingering head and stomach issues from the seasickness. And that was O.K. because we were going to be stuck at Grand Inagua til the high winds passed and we could head north up the Bahamas chain.

The weather window we had taken from Dominican Republic to the Bahamas was a short two to three days, and several other boats arrived after us. Then, the wind really set in. Over the next twelve days we were anchored in Man of War Bay on the western side of Great Inagua. There were about six other boats anchored in the bay and all of us hunkered down here for the duration of the high wind system.

It really is the only protected bay on this island to be in for the north eastern winds that were hitting the area. Thankfully, this bay is gorgeous, and even though the winds were raging just a few hundred meters behind us, we were well protected and safe tucked in close to the shore and the protection of the island.

After the series of long passages it was actually just really nice to be “stuck” doing nothing at all. In the most beautiful spot ever. Seriously, this bay was stunning and we managed to fill our days quite happily.

Flamingos!

While waiting out the wind in Man of War Bay, we decided to go on tour of the island with one of the local guys. We sorted out that he would pick us up right off the beach next to where we were anchored.

Jumping in we headed off towards the national park where all the flamingos are reported to live. The island is remarkably flat and the dirt road has short scrubby bush on both sides. The entire area we travelled was an enormous marshland, with shallow water about a foot or two deep extending as far as the eye could see. The raised road was a packed dirt that went in straight lines cutting directly through the landscape.

The island is dominated by an enormous salt mine, called Morton Salt. The mine employs an enormous number of the townspeople and is one of the main reasons such a small island is so prosperous.

All along the drive around the mine was a strange split view – on the right hand side, a dead wasteland of extremely salty water. The salt water is pumped inland through a series of channels and pumping stations; then progressively works back through the layered ponds towards the ocean, getting saltier and saltier as it goes. Looking out the left side, you could see the way the land would have looked without intervention – huge marshlands, interspersed with mangroves, herons, ducks, and birds all over.

Definitely the best part though is where the road starts heading south and the eastern side is an enormous open lake of water, not very deep, but stretching as far as the eye can see. Small plants occasionally dot the landscape, but it’s primarily open. And you can see flamingos, in clusters, in pairs, in packs, alone, all of them just spread out as far as you can see in every direction. Scattered over the surface, eating, flying, chilling on one leg. It’s a really cool sight.

As we drove along, the flamingos closest to the road would start their run ups and with an awkward hop, skip and jump launch into flight. They are such an awkward looking bird! Take off looks difficult, and once they are in flight their necks and legs look so long and gangly and out of place. Really entertaining to watch!

Salt Mine

Eventually we finished the long stretch of lakeside road, and headed east back towards the start of the mine. As we got closer and closer to the mine we really noticed the salt starting to build. Strange fluffy bits of foam were building along the waters edge, and in many places starting to pile up and blow all across the road. It almost looked like snow!

Then, you reach the parts where the water has been completely drained and the land is just white salt crystals as far as you can see. We passed some of the machinery harvesting the salt, enormous tractors grinding it up and into trucks to carry it to the stockpiles by the beach. Ready for loading onto the big salt ships that come into their port.

Lighthouse

We passed through the town to the south-west end of the island to go see the lighthouse here. This lighthouse is very cool – completely open to the public, you can climb all the way to the top and check out the old machinery that used to keep it lit. Now, at the top, there are stacks of old batteries which are used to keep the LED light going at the top – but it works well as we can see the light all the way from the top of the bay we are anchored in.

Town

The tour guide was pretty relaxed, and helped us to throw out our trash, stop in at the grocery store to pick up a bunch of food, and then also to a local sandwich stop to grab some takeaway rolls for our lunch. It was definitely an interesting way to see the area and get our chores done at the same time!